Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Hong Kong

I couldn't help but constantly search for a sign of oppression or trampled freedoms or underground protest. My distrust of China's system of government is so great that rather than appreciate the lively and bustling city I managed to convince myself that any apparent freedom was an exception to the rule. And the fact that it was an exception only proved the rule. That China was not free and therefore I could not like it. Unfortunately, or rather fortunately, our old friend reality gave me a sharp slap in the face.

I arrived at Central station and made my way to Central pier as the sun was rising. Hong Kong is the tallest city in the world, and while standing at the pier on Hong Kong Island even the cockiest New Yorker couldn't have disagreed.

It was forged in the peak of imperialism, when the high brow aristocrats of Britain truly believed that it was their god given right to bring civilization to the swathes of the worlds barbarian masses. We are all well versed in the dire consequences this had in most of the world, but strangely enough it actually worked pretty well here. For one thing, even though they suffered at the hands of the Japanese along with the rest of China they were protected from the further insults of the communist revolution and five year plan crap. Then, just as China is getting its feet and laying the foundations of its growth explosion, Hong Kong switches sides. But enough of the history lesson.

Something I found amusing is that Hong Kong has few street side shops. Instead of footpaths there are elevated walkways and instead of being able to leisurely stroll the city there is death by uphill walking. The malls are everywhere and packed with every western brand name you can think of. All very boring for someone who has no money. But then, just as if it wanted to prove that it was a western city, I stumbled across China town, a must have of any truly western city.

Maybe I had been slightly racist to think that China would just be like Chinatown but on a larger scale, but it also seems ridiculous to me that Hong Kong needs a China town to remind the average citizen of their roots. The area is Wan Chai and it’s full of street vendors and street markets selling cheap clothes and good food.

And that was it. Just as it was getting exciting and the city was coming to life I had to leave. Next stop India.

It appears that all indications point to me liking this city. Its not love, like it was with Vancouver or Montreal but in one day I’ve decided that it’s like at first sight.

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